Another great long weekend excursion is to travel to Northern Ontario to Thunder Bay and Pukaskwa National Park.
Pukaskwa is not easy to reach, perched on the northern shore of Lake Superior, about a 3.5-hour drive from Thunder Bay, the nearest airport serviced from Toronto. While Thunder Bay probably does not spring to mind as a destination, you should note that Porter Airlines, in its in-flight magazine, suggested Thunder Bay might be “Canada’s Greatest Outdoor City.”
Perched on the world’s largest freshwater lake, Thunder Bay offers various activities such as sailing, paddling, paddleboarding, fishing – and, of course, lots of convenient, easy hiking. It’s an outdoor playground with seven nearby provincial parks with scenic hikes to rivers, waterfalls and canyons. It also has Ontario’s only Wilderness National Park, Pukaskwa. I suggest dedicating two days to Thunder Bay and another two to Pukaskwa, as my wife and I did in mid-July 2023.
Pukaskwa: Ontario’s only Wilderness National Park
The 3.5-hour drive to Pukaskwa National Park (pronounced puck-a-saw) is a visual pleasure as it hugs the coast of Lake Superior and affords access to many scenic overlooks and beaches. Also, there are canyons, waterfalls and suspension bridges along the way. There’s even an amethyst mine which offers visitors the opportunity to find their own samples – which I did. The drive to Pukaskwa is a delightful journey in itself.
Upon arrival at Hattie Cove Visitor Centre on the northwestern side of Pukaskwa, you feel that you have indeed entered the wilderness. It’s a territory marked by rock cliffs, chasms, marshes, and dense boreal forest. The area was largely untouched by the logging and mining industries because the area was just too difficult to access efficiently. To further underscore this point, FYI, the section of the Canadian Pacific Railway running past the Park was the most complex and last to be built – and at a cost double that of any other section of railway across all of Canada.
The Park is mainly known for its Coastal Hiking Trail and Coastal Paddling Route – both over 60km long – which provide an extensive, multi-day wilderness experience. Along the route are 30 campgrounds used by hikers and paddlers alike. For those less adventurous or short on time, there are six short day hikes emanating from the Hattie Cove Visitor Centre.
Hiking in Pukaskwa
The six hiking trails, rated easy or moderate, and some paddling in the onsite rental canoes, provided a fun-filled two days of activities. My wife and I very much appreciated the feelings of serenity and peace. Below are a few comments on the trails we enjoyed, each no more than 2 hours.
Southern Headland Trail
The Southern Headland Trail offered excellent views from high above the shoreline, although a persistent fog impacted these on our first day there. The Trail leads you to a particularly nice overlook with one of the Canadian National Park Red Chairs – see below for more on that.
Manito Maiikano, aka the Spirit Trail, extended out on a peninsula above the lake, offering even more solitude – and fog.
Two trails at lake level, the Boardwalk Beach Trail and Beach Trail took us to Horseshoe Cove and Middle Beach, respectively, strewn with driftwood atop soft sand. And I more fully appreciated the unusual characteristic of sandy beaches and dunes found along the shore of Lake Superior. Wading in, I was reminded that the average year-round temperature of its waters is a bone-chilling 4 C (39 F). Brr
At the Visitor Centre, Ranger Carly recommended a sunset hike to Middle Beach via the Beach Trail. That evening, I witnessed a muted sunset behind a dense cloud cover, after which rose in the east an unobscured full moon. I re-hiked some of the trails from earlier in the day using the moonlight and photographing “Her Eminence” in all her glory.
Bimoose Kinoomagewnan
Our favorite trail was the nearly unpronounceable Bimoose Kinoomagewnan (bih-moh-say kin-oh-mah-geh-wa-nun), perhaps in part due to the re-emergence of the sun on Sunday. A 3.7 km loop around Halfway Lake, the Trail cuts through thick forest toward the Lake, then rises atop cliffs overlooking its waters and finally drops down to its marshes. Most noteworthy, the trail is known as the “Walk of Teachings,” with signage and images describing the Seven Grandfather Teachings from Anishinaabe elders: love, honesty, respect, wisdom, truth, humility, and courage. Beautiful.
Fun Fact: I have come to learn that Red Chairs are a thing at Canadian National Parks. Parks Canada has placed over them at over 100 locations, emphasizing lesser-known locations that are equally stunning. Fyi, the Chairs are made from 100% recycled plastic saved from Canadian landfills.
Tip: Bug Repellant is a must here. We found that head nets were not necessary so long as we had fully applied insect repellant, head to toe. I found Deep Woods by Off (with 30% DEET), and Kristi used a non-Deet natural repellent named Buzz Off by Randee’s Bees: both were completely effective.
Paddling in Pukaskwa
Canoeing with Kristi in Hattie Cove as the fog lifted.
We rented a canoe (only $5/hour!) from the Park Service and paddled around the Cove. The Hattie Cove area of Lake Superior is well protected, so the paddling is suitable for novices. We explored inlets, paddled around a small island, and found peace and calm as the sole paddlers in this Cove of Lake Superior. Highly recommended.
I should note a lack of “nice” accommodations and “fine” dining in the vicinity. Renting an Airbnb is an option we did. However, if available, I recommend staying in an oTENTik at the Hattie Cove campgrounds. There is also a local grocery store where you can stock up on provisions.
Tip: A cross between an A-frame cabin and a tent, oTENTiks are offered by Parks Canada at many of the Parks. They come with raised floors, cosy beds, furniture and lamps but no appliances. Most have heating (such as wood stove or propane), fire pit and BBQ. They are in high demand, and I have been unable to secure one yet, but I will!
Pukaskwa National Park is a great park to enjoy a few days of beautiful, easy hiking and paddling. It’s not the easiest to get to, but it’s very much worth the effort. Get out and explore all that nature has to offer!
Carpe diem!
